Posted 2021-04-19 03:05:39
Hello! I have a few tips for you - my first snake was a ball python. ^^ - Make sure the tank is suitable for the snake. Ball pythons are very shy and sensitive, so they don't tend to do as well in glass tanks / aquariums. They're also very good at escaping from those sorts of things. If the tank is a glass aquarium, make sure to get a lock for the top and add a lot of cover and hides so your snake doesn't feel too exposed. However, I do recommend eventually changing to a wooden vivarium if you can. Even then, you'll want to get a lock for the sliding door, since snakes are surprisingly good at opening those things (I didn't have a lock on mine because I was a fool, and I'll never forget the one time I came home to find the vivarium door open... thankfully my snake had decided not to go on an adventure that day and I found him chilling in one of his hides).
- Don't use heat mats. If you've done research, you'll see that a lot of people recommend them for ball pythons, but... my experience with them is that they are not good or appropriate for ball pythons, at least not when they're in a large tank / vivarium where there is a lot of air space that needs to be heated. Also there's more of a chance your snake will burn themself on a heat mat, especially if you're using a wooden vivarium (because then the heat mat would have to go inside the vivarium, and ball pythons tend to dig through their substrate so could easily uncover the heat mat).
- Speaking of substrate: be very picky with what you use. You'll want something that'll maintain a high humidity, isn't too dusty, and won't stick to the snake's food or get accidentally swallowed. I used to use orchid bark for my snake because it looked nice, but in hindsight I don't recommend it - it always used to get stuck to his food and it was pretty dusty. Aspen bedding is a good option but I'm not sure how well it retains humidity. I've also heard good things about coconut coir, but I've never used it myself so I can't tell you for sure how good it is. Reptisoil also seems like a good option. By mixing different substrates you can find the perfect balance, but if you want to keep it simple you can just use one type. Make sure to do your own research on this and figure out which sounds like the best fit for you and your snake! Also of course, triple check that any substrate you want to use isn't toxic to snakes. And check the substrate for any insects / mites / etc. before you use it.
- Find a good reptile vet before you get your snake. You'll want to seek out a specialist who has experience with snakes, not just any vet. You might have to travel far to find a vet like that, but it is definitely worth it! Snakes need very specialised care that a vet who's just used to dealing with mammals can't provide. This is one of the mistakes I made - I didn't find a vet ahead of time, so when my snake had issues I just wasn't sure where to go, which added a ton of stress. You'll want to take your snake to get checked over as soon as you get them, just in case!
- Ball pythons are VERY picky eaters, and often fast for long periods of time. Be prepared for this. It is VERY stressful to see a pet you care about refuse to eat for months on end - if that doesn't sound like something you can deal with, consider getting a corn snake instead. This is pretty much an unavoidable part of owning a ball python; there's nothing that can be done, as far as I know, to lessen the risk of extended fasting. If your python starts to lose weight, take them to a vet. Also, a tip: if your snake won't eat rats, try multimammate mice. They're a lifesaver! My snake ate rats at first but then completely refused them after a while, and fasted for a few months, then I decided to try multimammates instead and he started eating them immediately.
- Don't feed live food. It's cruel for the mouse / rat and dangerous for the snake. Frozen / thawed is the way to go - if your snake doesn't take to it immediately, there's plenty of ways to tempt them. For pythons, one easy way is to warm up the food before feeding, so it seems more "alive". Don't microwave it, that'll cook it and make it inedible for the snake. Instead, stick it in some hot (not boiling) water for a bit, then take it out and thoroughly dry it.
- Don't feed using your hand. Get some tongs. That way the snake won't learn to associate your hand with food, and you won't get bitten by accident.
- Ball pythons are nocturnal, so I find you'll have the best luck with feeding if you do it at night. If your snake doesn't eat right away, leave the food in the tank / vivarium overnight - half the time you'll find the food's gone by morning!
- As for handling, gauge your snake's individual needs and tolerances. I used to have to handle my snake regularly because he was very lazy and wouldn't really exercise enough without regular handling (and it didn't stress him out - I guess he seemed to enjoy it, at least as far as I could tell). Some ball pythons are more sensitive about handling and prefer not to be bothered too often, but overall in my experience I'd say ball pythons are a very handle-able snake. Just don't overdo it - once every day or two should be fine. And don't keep them out for too long or they'll get too cold, unless you live in a very warm climate.
- Ball pythons are technically a ground-dwellings species, but they still like to climb a bit. I recommend getting a grapevine for your snake to climb on - they're easy to get hold of, and are perfect for climbing! Other kinds of branches can work too. Just make sure it's secured properly and can hold your snake's weight. Also, if you decide to go out and find some normal branches to use, you'll want to remove all the bark from them and sand them before you add them to the tank / vivarium, to make sure there's nothing your snake could injure themself on. Then thoroughly clean / disinfect it. I've never done this before personally, but you can find more information about how to make a branch safe for your snake online.
- You'll want to have some form of lighting in your tank / vivarium, but keep it as natural as possible. Use a warm white light and make sure to turn it off at night (or, even better, get a timer that'll do it for you). LED strips are a good option since they don't get too hot and last a long time. You'll also want to consider getting a UV bulb. Most sources say snakes don't need them, but if I'm remembering correctly there was some new research that suggests otherwise? Best to get one just in case. It won't do any harm and it might help your snake!
- Pythons are some of the most intelligent snakes out there - they get bored easily. To spice things up, rearrange the tank / vivarium regularly and introduce new items every now and then for your snake to explore. They love it. I remember my snake was always most active after I rearranged his vivarium - he'd always roam around investigating everything, it was very cute. Handling can help with boredom too!
- They might not look it (or act it half the time) but ball pythons are quick when they want to be! If you let your snake roam around outside the tank / vivarium (which I do recommend, as long as you're 100% sure it's safe) then keep a close eye on them! Because once they're hidden away beneath furniture or whatnot, you'll have a hard time getting them out.
- If you use a heat lamp (which I do recommend), I suggest using one that doesn't produce light so that the snake can have a natural day / night cycle without losing the heat source at night. And make sure to get a cage for the light so that your snake won't burn themself!
Okay, that's all I can think of off the top of my head! If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask and I'll answer as best as I can. I'm not an expert by any means, but I did do a lot of research before I got my first snake and have experience with looking after him, so I might be able to help! At least, I can help you not make the same mistakes I did. ^^ I hope this helps!
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Rook
#2998
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